To this point, I had traveled a bit in pandemic times but only once by plane, to Copenhagen for the weekend for Karina’s wedding. My big planned trip to Iceland in July 2020 had been foiled by my not having my BRP in hand; I was denied boarding at the gate and though it might sound really trivial, that experience, and the disappointment of it, haunted me.
This summer Claus’ family had booked a big house on Fanø, a vacation island off the west coast of Jutland, accessible via ferry from Esbjerg. They invited me to join and I decided to go for it, turning my planned 3 days off into a full week to enjoy it with some time in Copenhagen on either end. As the trip approached, I was riddled with anxiety. Somehow Denmark didn’t have any entry testing requirements, which I was very skeptical was correct up until the point I was issued a boarding pass. I was physically shaking as I approached the check-in counter and for the first time did the dance I’ve done many times since of showing my passport, showing my vaccination proof, answering several questions, and then waiting in angst as the airline agent consulted a tablet for the latest travel guidance to determine if I met the requirements. Then suddenly I had a boarding pass and was through!
My mood leapt wildly at several inflection points over the following few hours: when I scanned my ticket and was allowed to board. When the plane lifted off. When we landed and learned that this was the first day where we wouldn’t have to undergo on-arrival testing before entering the airport in Copenhagen. By the time I got through baggage claim at Kastrup I was ecstatic.
And Fanø was wonderful. Claus’ family had come here for vacation for many years when he was a young child, as he had family who lived there at the time, so he was full of stories -- there was the archway with the strangely de-armed bust of a man in a blue coat that he remembered as being the sign that they were finally there; the old sea mine painted with a Danish flag and converted into a piggy bank that he would try to climb up on top of at the age of 6 and therefore remembered as being twice his size, that seemed so small now; the tale of the time his dad had to break into their own car on the ferry because they locked the keys in side. On our first night there, we ate a delicious dinner at the inn across the street from his grandparents’ former home. I’ve seen home video of Claus’ family car parked in that very street (though you can’t drive there anymore).
This photo is just a random street in the old town Sønderho, but the yellow and red of the houses, the Dannebrog (yes, Denmark’s flag has a name) pennant waving in the light breeze, the blue sky...all of it conjures in my mind the happy warmth of that week of perfect summer in Denmark.